Great Lakes, great brews

Collegian reporter explores nearby breweries, discovers Michigan beer

By: Jack Hittinger

Posted: 4/10/08

Hillsdale beer drinkers looking for a respite from the world of Budweiser and Miller are in the right state.

"Quality-wise, Michigan beer is really underrated," said Sid Halley, beer aficionado and owner of Oakley! Deli and Party Store in Hillsdale. "There's a lot of variety, and it's good quality."

Halley serves a variety of Michigan brews at his store, from more popular ones like Kalamazoo-based Bell's to obscure brands like New Holland.

Halley said he finds a lot of local breweries better than their major-label counterparts.

"You've got to be better if you're going to compete against a national company," he said. King's Brewing Co. in Pontiac, Mich., has an Irish Red that Halley maintains is better than Killian's.

"Once you try it, you'll never want a Killian's again," he said.

And according to most experts, Michigan beer is becoming something of a hot commodity, not only in the Midwest, but nationally as well.

Russ Beattie, production manager of the Dark Horse Brewing Co. in Marshall, Mich., said demand for Dark Horse beer is growing so quickly that they had to expand their facilities.

"We have so many people wanting our beer that we have to ramp up production from two batches a day to four," said the 33-year-old brewer. "As quick as we're emptying our stock, we're filling it."

That's thanks in part to the 2,000 square-foot expansion that Beattie expects should double his brewery's 1,600-barrel-per-year output.

"Everything you see, we built ourselves," Beattie said, motioning towards the modestly sized but cavernously high-ceilinged brew house.

With only four brewers on staff, Dark Horse's success is even more impressive. But it also gives the Dark Horse a nice community vibe.

In the small pub adjacent to the brewery, patrons crowd around doors made into tables just to get a sample of the beer.

"They have the best IPA [India Pale Ale] I've ever had," said Mike Shivley of Charlotte, Mich.

Brothers Al and Andy Weyer, Marshall residents, like the company too.

"We live in a small town, and Aaron [Mose, owner and head brewer,] and Trent [Thurston, brewer,] are our friends," Al said. "I always feel like Norm on 'Cheers' around here."

Weyer said he has noticed a great spike in the production of smaller breweries in recent years, thanks in no small part to the success of Bell's.

"If it weren't for [Bell's Founder Larry Bell], there wouldn't be a Dark Horse," Weyer said.

He noted that New Holland and Arcadia Brewing Co. in Battle Creek are excellent breweries worth checking out, but also that a lot of the best beer he's had comes from people's personal batches.

"There are a lot of people doing it these days," he said. "Some guys I know even bring entire kegs of their own stuff to parties."

Those not willing to go as far as to attempt brewing their own beer, but who still want to sample some Michigan beer, should check out Oakley!'s Michigan beer section. Halley said the store should be starting up its Michigan beer tour again soon.

It might be a little more expensive than Budweiser, but Halley said that shouldn't be a detracting factor.

"I just want people to try some other things," said Halley, explaining why he likes the beer tour. "I sell better stuff, and people drink better stuff."

For more Michigan beer information, click this link.